Wednesday 6 March 2013

Three Lakeland Valleys, Sunday 3 March

So Sunday was an interesting one! A 30km walk in Lakeland, taking in 3 valleys and nearly 1000m of ascent, but no summits...

The walk began at the Wasdale Head campsite. Myself, Imogen and Lorna had stayed overnight following the trip up from Kendal the night before. It was a fine spring-like start to the day, with bright sunshine pouring into the amphitheatre like surround of peaks at Wasdale. I was soon on ascent up towards the high, barren ground between Illgill Head and Scafell, pounding up the bridle way, down to just a t-shirt and wondering why I'd packed a bag full of winter clothing! After passing by Burnmoor Tarn, I was soon on descent into Eskdale and the Dalegarth terminus of the L'al Ratty (Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway). Unfortunately, no trains were to be had for me today, but I was pleased to stroll into the car park at 10:30 and meet Andy, who had just himself arrived from Whitehaven. The two of us had a good catch up in the sunshine whilst awaiting the arrival of the LUHC minibus from Lancaster. It was a good rest for me waiting for all the walks to be announced and officialdoms of pink sheets to be filled out. I decided to join one of the hiking groups heading for Harter Fell in order to continue on my quest to reach the third valley. It was a fine walk through the wooded valley following the River Esk upstream. After Whahouse Bridge, it was down to just Jim and myself for the start of the long-haul up onto Great Moss. This was to be my first visit to one of England's largest bogs, and a fine time to do it as there had been very little rain for the past two weeks so underfoot it was probably about as dry as it gets. Surrounded on all sides by Lakeland's highest and craggiest peaks, the Moss is a spectacularly grandiose setting, bounded with the fine rock scenery of the Scafell range to the north. Just after Cam Spout Crag, Jim headed off up How Beck towards Scafell, whilst I continued the gradual easterly romp across the Moss until I reached the very upper reaches of the River Esk. I followed this through an exciting, part snow filled, canyon like feature until the beck was no more and I emerged triumphantly onto Esk Hause, the highest point for the day! Unfortunately by this time, the cloud cover had increased to a blanket greyness, and it was quite cold in the brisk wind, so I didn't hang around. With 1 hour 25 minutes to go until the early bus from Seatoller, the prospect of a cup of tea in Keswick got me going downhill at a brisk rate. I was heading for Grains Gill and Seathwaite via the direct route from Esk Hause (not Ruddy Gill). This provided the excitement of a steep snow bank, which made the carrying of the ice axe and crampons worthwhile as I was able to get the metal out and descend in speed and style!
Upon reaching the flat part of Borrowdale at Stockley Bridge, and with about 25 minutes to go until that early bus, it seemed unlikely that I'd cover the remaining 3km without some sort of mad sprint. With around 2km on Tarmac ahead, this did not seem appealing, so I slowed to a more leisurely pace and enjoyed the Borrowdale scenery along to Seatoller. The later and indeed last bus turned up on time and I was able to sit back and enjoy a very smooth trip back to Lancaster via Keswick and a quiet Pendolino from Penrith.

A fine day in Lakeland, whoever said it was all about getting to the summits?

Up towards Scafell and Scafell Pike from Wasdale


Great Moss and surrounding hills, looking east


The headwaters of the River Esk

Saturday 2 March 2013

Braemar & the Southern Cairngorms, 23-24 Feb 2013

What an outstanding weekend! Club trips to Braemar always install an excitement for adventurous backpacking trips out into the wild southern Cairngorms and this one was to be no exception! After a surprisingly comfortable wild camp at the Linn of Dee on Friday night, we were well prepared for the long walk to the high mountains along Glen Lui and Glen Derry on Saturday. The four of us (Sam, Lorna, Imogen and myself) had set our sights on a two day mission to the Hutchinson Memorial Hut high in Coire Etchachan, although we weren't bargaining on floor space in the bothy so carried our tents with us. It was a spectacular 13km walk in along the Glens, gradually rising through increasing neve-like snow cover to 700m up at the Bothy. We arrived at the Bothy just in time for a decent lunch break, and shared experiences over our lunch with a Royal Marines member (not on duty) who had spent the morning walking over Ben Macdui from Corrour Bothy. After lunch, we off-loaded most of our heavy gear for the camping and set off up the steep northern slopes of Derry Cairngorm. The first bit out of Coire Etchachan provided some interest in it's steepness, although we were soon up onto the vast gradually rising upper slopes. The views from Derry Cairngorm were spectacular, with the sun coming out across much of the hills to the South. After Derry Cairngorm, we decided to head north and then west up to the summit of Ben Macdui. It was a fairly long haul up to the summit, which was unfortunately cloud covered. Our decent back down to Hutchinson Memorial hut via the completely snow-covered Loch Etchachan was fairly rapid on the hard snow, although it was just breaking dark when we arrived back into the corrie. Given the temperatures, we didn't hang around long and cooked a quick meal on our stoves before retreating to the tents for an early night. The moon was out as the sky had mostly cleared through, so I managed to grab a few nice night-time shots on my camera through experimenting with the long-exposure setting! Sleeping was no problem as we were all pretty tired.

On Sunday morning, we decided not to proceed with our option of bagging Beinn Mheadhoin as the cloud had dropped down and we were not feeling up to another strenuous day. So after a leisurely start, we set off back down Glen Derry towards Derry Lodge and the Linn of Dee. It cleared through the morning and early afternoon and there was a feel of spring in the air as we dropped away from snow clad upper slopes and into the more forested sections of the Glens. I was pleased to see plenty of young Scotch Pines attempting to gain a foothold in Glen Derry, in some places aided by tree guards and deer fencing. I pondered optimistically over how the Glen might look in 20 years time if the pines manage to grow to maturity and recreate more expansive stands of beautiful Caledonian forest that once covered much of the Scottish Glens and Moors. We arrived back at the Linn of Dee around an hour ahead of schedule, which was nice as we could enjoy a cup of tea and a chat in the sunshine with those who had done walks and climbs at Lochnagar the previous day. We were on our way from Braemar by late afternoon which meant we were able to enjoy all the mountains through the Glenshee area in daylight, followed by sunset over the hills of the West Highlands as we headed south around Perth and on to Stirling.

A fine winter weekend in Braemar once again and thanks to all involved for making it an enjoyable trip.

On ascent to the Hutchinson Memorial hut passing through the lower slopes of Glen Derry.


Approaching Ben Macdui Summit in 'bright mist'


Wild Camping spot in Coire Etchachan


Sunday's walk back to Linn of Dee... downhill all the way in the sunshine!