Wellington to Christchurch (first NZ Rail Journey)...

After being in New Zealand for two days I thought it was about time I got out on my first rail journey to of course test out the network over here. The planned journey to Auckland on ‘The Overlander’ was fully booked so instead I booked myself up on the ‘Tranzcoastal’ to Christchurch. This of course involves crossing the Cook Strait to South Island, so the journey started on Friday aboard the 0820 interislander sailing from Wellington to Picton at the very N of S Island. The ferry itself 'Kaitaki' - Maori for The Challenger, as it turns out is the ex Pride of Cherbourg from what was our very own P&O Portsmouth-Cherbourg route back in the UK - just shows the range of destinations these ships get to visit during their liftimes! The crossing was awesome, unfortunately no sun - but the rain held off. The second half of the journey involves entering the narrow Malborough sounds, so the ferry travels at a slightly reduced speed. We were also lucky to get a school of 50+ dolphins swimming alongside the boat in the sounds, jumping right up and out of the water, riding the bow wake and some in small groups with young ones too.


Another of the interislander vessels Aratere in the Malborough Sounds, South Island, bound for Wellington

The small town of Picton is the northern terminus of the South Islands railway, these days largely a freight line but with the one each way ‘Tranzcoastal’ service from/ to Christchurch. The journey takes five hours and runs for 150km right alongside the Pacific coast. The NZ network being of narrow gauge of just over a metre limits the top speed on the line to 100kmph, but even so it certainly seems like you’re racing along - especially from the outdoor observation carriage - which of course has a roof to keep the NZ rain at bay. The coastal stretch was just fantastic - with the 2000m+ Kaikoura mountains inland coming right down to a narrow coastal plain with simply the railway line, the East coast road, the beach and then the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. It passes one NZ’s largest colony of Fur Seals just N of Kaikoura town. Literally hundreds of seals hauled out on the rocks a few metres from the train. The line trundles along long expanses of black sand beaches and through numerous tunnels before heading inland across the Canterbury plains, from where you would see the Southern Alps (except it was dark by the time we crossed on Friday night), towards Christchurch - the largest city on South Island.


The outdoor observation carriage on the "Tranzcoastal"

Arriving in Christchurch I was greeted by lashing rain, so naturally decline the offer of a $5 dollar shuttle which would have dropped me at the hostel door to take a scenic 2km walk into the city - most satisfying! Arriving at the hostel rather drowned, I warmed up a bit before heading out to brave the rain again to find some food and a pub. Tried out the local beer (nothing special, and freezing cold for some strange reason - and it claims to be Ale!) and then got a curry. The morning shuttle to the station is free, by which time it had stopped raining, but I took it anyway to avoid awaking even earlier. Left Christchurch in the dark again at 0700 for the Northward trip on the ‘Tranzcoastal’. I also got my first view of the Southern Alps foothills. After chatting to the train manager about the awesomeness of Virgin Trains and all things transport, I managed to bag myself a ride in the cab of the diesel locomotive for the final 30mins of the journey to Picton which was really fun to get the drivers eye of the line.


Black sands and the Pacific Ocean, the snow capped Kaikoura mountains dip into the clouds in the background

It was rather wet in Picton, so rather than wait for my booked 1805 sailing I decided not to hang around and take the 1415 back to Wellington, It was a rainy and foggy voyage with no dolphins this time unfortunately - they must have been hiding from the wet...