Snow, Sun and Sulphur Dioxide...

Friday 17 August, was the first opportunity to head into the depths of North Island, with the destination being the barren central volcanic plateau area of the Tongariro National Park. Arriving at the village of Whakapapa, Ollie, Andrea, Simon and myself sharpened our ice axes and donned the waterproofs in preparation to head up and make camp in the ski fields of ‘Mordor’. Plodding up through the ski highways, avoiding the tractor like ‘groomers’ we selected a secluded valley, in which to pitch up. Then we spent a fine couple of hours in torrential drizzle digging a pit in which to pitch the two tents. Awaking Saturday morning to just as pleasant weather (which hadn’t put off those keen skiers and boarders) we continued on our plod to gain more height on the mountain. At some point in the afternoon we reached the area known as the summit plateau of Mt Ruapehu, a 2600m high ice plateau. Having decided the weather was not favourable to camping and after a few minutes of attempting to dig a snow cave in the side of Dome Ridge before hitting rock hard layers in the pack, we decided to head to the Dome Ridge Hut, a fine little shack complete with all the facilities you would need including a steaming spa pool just minutes walk (the highly acidic Crater Lake). After digging into the metres deep snow drift in front of the door and removing the plated steel armour from ourselves (the rain from lower down had gradually turned to snow as we headed up mountain, and thus our waterproofs/ rucksacks had frozen solid) we settled into our home and cooked a fine stew!

The Entrance to the Dome Ridge Hut

Sunday turned the weather gradually started to get better, and we spent the day ice bouldering on the hut roof, and admiring some fine views of the icy, volcanic scenery. Kieran and Craig headed up to join us, whilst Simon and Andrea headed back to Wellington. Monday myself and Kieran headed out for the Crater Rim traverse, whilst Craig and Ollie headed to Cathedral Rocks to find an ice route. The Crater Rim traverse was indeed what it said on the tin, a fine circuit on the airy ridge up above the bubbling lake. It included the highest point on Mt Ruapehu and the North Island, Tahurangi! We also had the opportunity to cross the hot Crater outlet stream, by means of a perfectly stable snow bridge! Monday evening it was time to head down to a more comfortable accommodation, that of a bach (pronounced ‘batch’, the Kiwi word for a prefab-like holiday home) on Lake Taupo, belonging to a friend of Craig’s.

From the Crater Rim and summit ridge of Tahurangi, the Crater Lake steams in the midday sun!

On Pyramid, the final peak of the Crater Rim route, with Cathedral Rocks (R) and the summit plateau (L) in the background.

Tuesday was another fine day with clear skies and blazing sunshine, so while Kieran and Craig headed out to ski the Whakapapa routes, Ollie and myself headed to climb amongst the snowy Whakapapa Pinnacles. Ended up nipping up a fine neve filled scoop onto a col between two of the pinnacles, for the view over the Mt Nghauruhoe (Doom) and Tongariro volcanic complexes. Then it was back down the same way and nipping across the ski highways to the Waterfall cafe, where we managed to grab a lift down the mountain on the Waterfall Express chairlift, a fitting finish to the trip, with fine late afternoon sunny views across to the Pinnacles.
So that was Ruapehu, ‘The Andesite Beast’.

At the Northern End of Dome Ridge, above the Whakapapa Ski Fields, with Nghauruhoe and Tongariro in the background